Dramatic, in every sense

Drama boasts stunning forests, devotion to tradition and much more


By Haris Argyropoulos

The name of the district of Drama in eastern Macedonia bears no relation to the arts, though nature has not been sparing in its artistic brushstrokes: magic forests, rivers you would think are straight out of paintings, breathtaking caves and superb ski slopes. Fertile valleys, picturesque villages, archaeological monuments and imposing monasteries complement the picture. And the warm hospitality of the people certainly contrasts with the area’s reputation for having the country’s lowest winter temperatures.
Most people are occupied with farming, marble quarrying and logging. Drama used to be a flourishing center of the clothing industry and efforts have been made in recent years to revive the area by tapping its rich natural endowments for tourism development.

The district is of great ecological interest, abounding in opportunities for hiking and observing the many rare species of flora and fauna hosted in the local forest ecosystems. It also has a rich cultural and folk tradition. The highlight is definitely the Virgin Forest at Frakto.

The town of Drama itself, 655 kilometers from Athens and 155 km northeast of Thessaloniki, has a population of around 40,000 and is perched above endless tobacco fields at the foot of Mt Falakro (2,194 meters). The modern and popular skiing center on Falakro, 43 km from Drama, is closely associated with the town and a strong contributor to the economy of the area. The city also hosts a Short Film Festival each September.

Drama town is a pleasure to walk around, with old water mills and mansions, Byzantine monuments, the imposing old multistory tobacco warehouses and recreation areas built around small, man-made lakes. Korylovo hill, some 4 km through a fine forest area to the north, offers the visitor a superb view of the town and the valley. The cave of Maaras, at Kokinogies, 23 km from Drama, is estimated to be 10 to 12 km long, although just 4.5 km have been explored and only about 500 meters are open to the public. It is worth visiting for its stunning color stalactites, the subterranean River Aggitis which traverses the cave and the ponds inside it.

Kato Nevrokopi, 42 km from Drama, is a picturesque town rich in natural beauty and history. It is not uncommon for temperatures there to drop to minus 20 degrees Celsius in winter, but this does not deter the locals from diving into the frosty waters in a traditional ritual on January 6, the Epiphany, to catch the cross in honor of the baptism of Christ. If necessary, the ceremony involves a breaking of the ice.

The traditional custom of Arapides takes place in the village of Volakas on the feast day of St John the Baptist, January 7. Between Christmas and Epiphany, when the waters are still unblessed, goblins are supposed to visit houses unnoticed and get up to mischief, causing minor damage. Also on January 7, the Arapides, who cover their faces and hands with soot and dress in the image of St John in the desert, go about the village with awkward movements and dangling sheep bells, the noise of which is supposed to drive the goblins away. Such events take place for several days in other villages as well. This and similar customs in other villages of northern Greece are modifications of pre-Christian Bacchic rituals, the purpose of which was to exorcise the bad spirits and elicit good luck and crops.

The presence of such rituals since antiquity is probably not unrelated to the district’s reputation for good wine. There are five winery estates that can be visited by appointment on any day: N. Lazaridis and Manolesakis in Adriani, K. Lazaridis in Agora, Techni Alipias in Microhori and Pavlidis in Kokkinogia.

Five kilometers from Kato Nevrokopi, near the Greek-Bulgarian border, visitors can see the small museum of Fort Lisse, part of the Greek defense during World War II which withstood successive German attacks in April 1941 before regional commanders called a ceasefire.

Finally, 10 km southeast of Drama is the historic and pretty market town of Doxato, with several neoclassical buildings, tourist facilities and a reputation for fun and high spirits. The paradise-like Bounar-Bassi springs, with running waters and enormous trees, are 3 km away.
Transport & useful info

Area telephone code: 25210. One can go by plane to Thessaloniki or Kavala (68 km, 25910.53273) and then rent a car. There are bus connections from Athens (210.523.0220) -- the journey takes 7.5 hours -- and from Thessaloniki (2310.521.139). There are intercity train connections from Athens daily, taking about 8 hours, and from Thessaloniki, lasting just over 3 hours. Hellenic Railways info center: 1110; tourism office: 62307; police: 33333; hospital: 23351.

Where to stay

Ιn Drama town: Xenia (33195/6), Apollon (25551/3), Tasko (23855). In Nevrokopi: Akritas (25230.22319), Orvilos (25230.22515). In Sidironero: Voreas (25210.91391), Elatia (25210.91300/1, 6972.081.157). In Paranesti: Filoxenia (25240.22001), Nessos (25240.21021). In Volakas: Monopati E6 (25230.23916). Mikromilia: Steki ton Kynigon (25230.23435). In Granitis: Grand Chalet (4-star, 25230.22832/3). In Doxato: Alexandros (25210.55550).

Where & what to eat

In Drama town, various ouzo places and all-manner of kebab houses serve excellent local delicacies. Also good value: Berdema (187 Verginas), Gallia (32 Smyrnis), Kalligefston (113 Ethnikis Amynis), To Nisaki (3 Aghias Varvaras), Tesseris Epoches (5 Efxinou Pontou, good wine list). In Doxato: Vais (66312). Also Thodoras in Granitis, Iliostasio in Kato Nevrokopi, Petrini Gonia in Livadero (22 km from Drama). Excellent pastrami from Galentzos in Nevrokopi (33689).

What to see & activities

In Drama town itself, the Aghia Varvara and municipal recreation parks, the old tobacco warehouses, the large number of interwar mansions, the old Eleftheria cafe, the Byzantine churches and part of the town’s Byzantine walls, the old Zonke flour mill, the archaeological, folk and ecclesiastical museums and the two surviving mosques. Visit the Natural History Museum in Paranesti, the beautiful artificial Lake of the Rivers in Thisavros and the Menikio forest.